Computer will not post/boot

Hello, 

Hope this is the correct forum to ask for help  to resolve this issue.

Computer specs

Problem:

In about 4 weeks, lost 1 of 2 monitor displays, then lost my other monitor display. 

Computer specs

POST means power on self test so it's the first sign of life when everything is working as it should, which means the basic hardware (CPU, memory, video card, keyboard/mouse) has been detected and you should at least be able to get into BIOS.  In the old days you used to get a beep when this was completed but most cases don't have speakers installed now.  Booting normally means to load the operating system, so a system may POST but still not boot correctly for whatever reason (operating system problem for example).
 
Regarding the BIOS flashback feature, it sounds like you followed the right procedure but this video has a few extra tips.  A USB flash drive with an activity light might be useful, to see whether it's actually accessing it.

Excuse the interjection folks 

I understand with new CPU likely need to update the bios. Bios has not be updated since  MB was bought (2018)

 

Some clarification and a couple of questions if I may;.

Are you saying that you have purchased a new CPU in an attempt to fix the problem highlighted in blue above.

What is the brand, model name or number and age of the PSU.

Do you have a keyboard hooked up.

Fwiw: MBs have a higher failure rate than CPUs do and PSUs should never be overlooked as a possible cause even when from a proven brand.

Thank you both.

Jonuk  -Great video!!! -   did not come across this with my utube search.  My manual was not all that clear about a few things the video brought out, like max size of the flash ( 32G) I used 64G, and pulling out bios folder from the extracted file which I i did not do. Also was unclear whether to have the computer turned on or not.. I tried it both ways, and seems good the USB was not appropriate when I had the computer turned on during bios update.. I will have to get an  usb with an indicator light and pull out the extracted file.

Phil, no prob re: your interjection.. yes, I did purchase a new CPU; -  Ryz 5, 3600.

Dang, forgot to include the PSU info: it is a Roswell 80 plus bronze 550 series ( 550 watts) Age is ~ 9 years as were all my components (before I started switching those out as mentioned above).

Keyboard was hooked up to test the replacment of system components, but not during Bios flashback .

How is a PSU inspected?

I will buy a lighted flash drive, and again give Bios a shot, and will reply.

Thank you so much 

Can I ask what the previous CPU was and if you still have it, there may be nothing wrong with it.

the PSU info: it is a Roswell 80 plus bronze 550 series ( 550 watts) Age is ~ 9 years 

 

Big mistake using such an old PSU with new hardware and for two reasons, PSUs get weaker with age and newer hardware and especially GPUs are a lot more power hungry and so much so that the minimum PSU efficiency rating required for a gaming rig is Gold and Rosewill have never made a single PSU that would be appropriate for a modern gaming rig, older GPUs got by on Bronze efficiency rated PSUs from reputable brands such as Corsair and EVGA to name two but those days are long gone.

Your build needs a 550W or above Gold efficiency rated PSU fro one of the following, Corsair RM range, EVGA, Seasonic or Super Flower, seven year warranty minimum but preferably ten.

You are welcome 

Ok, Obtained the USB  - actually 2  from diff manufacturers...

Followed the video instructions

In the video it showed the MB would update with flashing lights for a few mintues.

Mine only did that for not more than 2 seconds.

Still will not turn on.

Will obtain PSU as suggested, but am thingking I will need a new MB(?).

This is disappointing.

Do you mind if I ask what you are disappointed about?

Disapponting:

BIOS update failed, 

No clear resolution, as there does not seem to be a clear diagnosis of the problem, so I have to buy pretty much all the innards for a new compouter.

Just ordered:

Edited by mrmatt2, 04 October 2024 - 04:21 PM.

Sorry but you are jumping the gun imho, you have spent money on new hardware without even knowing which component/s are bad.

I asked but got no reply;

Can I ask what the previous CPU was and if you still have it, there may be nothing wrong with it.

 

We volunteer to not only help members with tech support but to also try and save them money as well.

Tip, try the new PSU with all the original hardware before even opening the packaging of any new MB,

Massive overkill but a great PSU btw.

I'm in the same boat as PP2.

Given what you told us in your first post, I assumed that you had already checked the Power Supply, as the gradual degradation of which fits all your symptoms.

Hi Phil, from your question, thought you were refering to  my new cpu - 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some clarification and a couple of questions if I may;.

 

Are you saying that you have purchased a new CPU in an attempt to fix the problem highlighted in blue above.

 

What is the brand, model name or number and age of the PSU.

 

My mistake then...seems chips are made at different years..as far as I can tell, sot that is what I was thinking....

It was a Ryzen 5, 2600, and I still have it..

I will try the PSU first as recommended, I can always return the MB if it is not needed.

Wee-Eddie

I am not sure how to inspect a PSU, this is new to me. Long time ago, had a PSU that just died, and I replaced.. so thought they were either working or absolutley not.. vs losing power.

Thank you both.

 

How is a PSU inspected?

 

I will buy a lighted flash drive, and again give Bios a shot, and will reply.

 

Thank you so much 

I can reduce my cost on the PSU with the following if the following is recommended:

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM650-Modular-Low-Noise-Supply/dp/B0CQN16G8Z/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2KMUE5B3PVKZV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.RJm_n3N9N2dEM9gofOlrqEMBU3Y6sjhDBs3QqW0XKVXhnAWeJqt4aMiS8lJNL6eq_Xgv_loLMYck23HszD5KE3TztZHtAWEa-KYKv5U_s4Fh6oLZklkC47MBOD6a5oSjL4pfnfdjFOwoa1AGNsMTAU4r7uKIm_KaW5N_M_ZyEeXsikifQ5YcX1a7mBfdmb_PjClPCmXliCn-julHJyxS3Qp-a8CM6C_-LVN7N2aMFbWdGLBB4wIQbaVpCr6u68XS6W3Po1bJ9J709wcsneesetqEQ5QX-vvKTPyz-RFk6s8.IBVAYyIO2eFYM4tVH4lBBfdyImOPD8sMGF5crtxIpVA&dib_tag=se&keywords=Corsair%2BRM%2Brange%2C%2BEVGA%2C%2BSeasonic%2Bor%2BSuper%2BFlower%2B550%2Bwatt&qid=1728133487&s=electronics&sprefix=corsair%2Brm%2Brange%2C%2Bevga%2C%2Bseasonic%2Bor%2Bsuper%2Bflower%2B550%2Bwatt%2Celectronics%2C72&sr=1-1&th=1

Both will arrive the same time

I never mean to be confrontational, if any of my reply seems so, I apologize. I greatly appreciate all of your help with this issue.

This site has always been my place to go when issues I cannot solve arise.. Due to the quality of help I have received, .I ALWAYS recommend this site to others who have their own computer issues

Thanks

Bit of juggling but what I would do, try the new PSU with the hardware as it is now and if all okay return the new MB, if not okay, swap back in the original CPU and see how that works out with no BIOS update needed but a new PSU.

CORSAIR RMx SHIFT Series™ RM750x  has a ten year warranty as opposed to the others seven years and is less expensive, just make sure that you like the idea of the cables coming from the side instead of the back.

I never mean to be confrontational,

 

Wasn't aware that you had been.

Edited by PhillPower2, 05 October 2024 - 10:34 AM.

A couple of points of clarification:

All electronics are subject to a variety of problems that can arise from power surges, lightning strikes, extensive and repeated brown-outs, inferior quality parts, poor soldering, environmental factors, and so on. The best electronics will keep going for many decades - at least they did in the early part of my life when everything was relatively uncomplicated. A neighbor gave me an old analog radio, an original, with a wooden body and it still worked. It had vacuum tubes, not transistors.

Inevitably, electronics start declining or they die suddenly. Aside from electrical damage, it's most often going to be the weakest component in it that gives out, but some things can cause a knock-on effect to many or most parts, like when you're in a vehicular collision - everything's put out of whack. Some things are fixable, others are not. Computers are much more complicated, so there are many more possible points of failure, some of which won't cause the entire computer to fail, others of which won't.

Regarding the SHIFT power supplies, what Phill is saying is that, instead of the cables/jacks being on the "front" of the PSU, which would be the side facing the front of the case, with the opposite side peeking out the back of the case so you can plug it in, the cables/jacks are located on the right side, which is great if your case is wide enough (!) because it frees up all that space in front of the PSU that could be used for storage devices or ventilation. You definitely need to carefully look at how much space there is between the PSU and the side of the case, or you'll just end up returning it or leaving the side off because you don't want to FORCE the door closed on the cables, which will ultimately cause them to fail much faster.

I hope my clarifications make sense.

Thanks for the claification Rev, 

Unfortunately the new PSU did not overcome the failure to boot.

The EZ Debug LEDs show "BOOT" (= booting device is not deteced or failed) is still lit..

Would it be helpful to clear the CMOS? at this point?

Yes, you should clear the CMOS.